Yves Saint Laurent’s work was dominated by ‘change’: fashion journalists loved to cover his collection showings as they knew that they would see novelty with each one. The diversity of theme seen in his big mens clothing designs was inspired by art, his travels, cultural events, theatre, popular culture and films. Significantly, he sensed that the women’s trouser suit, for both daytime and evening wear, would become a major fashion statement for decades.
Yves Saint Laurent worked as Christian Dior’s assistant for three years, during which time 50 out of 80 garments produced in a collection were his. In 1962, he opened his own couture house.
His first independent big and tall mens clothing collections were a break away from traditional haute couture and, in retrospect, were quite revolutionary. Like Elsa Schiaparelli, he challenged the seriousness of high fashion and referred to his collections as ‘fun clothes’. His ranges mimicked the beatnik look of the 1950s with turtle-necked sweaters and black leather jackets, as seen in his ‘Beat’ collection (1960), gaiety and lavishness in the ‘Gypsy Look’, and the popular television show based on the tales of Robin Hood. His travels took him around the world and his ‘African collection (1967) displayed rows of beads revealing the flesh below.
Yves Saint Laurent was one of the first haute couture designers to openly acknowledge his interest in popular culture. He announced that his greatest influence came from the fashion in ‘the street’. His combination of couture and street style led him to design, among other things, his hippie protest clothing complete with headband and fringe. His love of theatrical costuming, such as that seen in the ballet production of Scheherazade inspired his use of bold, exotic colors and rich brocades.
Paintings by Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse held in his own private collection, and postmodern art movements like pop and op, motivated his ‘Mondrian dress of 1965, at a time when retrospective exhibitions were being held around the globe, and his friendship with Andy Warhol led to his ‘Pop Art Look’ of 1966.
Yves Saint Laurent acknowledged that he drew inspiration from Chanel with his garments maintaining simplicity of line and form. He had an innate ability to accessorize every garment perfectly to create a totally coordinated look. Like Chanel, he appropriated men’s clothing to be worn by women, thereby attempting to break down out-moded views about gender.
His most characteristic look (which became the look of the 1970s) was the midi trench coat worn over trousers. His outstanding legacy also includes his tuxedo suits for women called ‘Le Smoking (1966 to 1982). After 40 years in the business, Yves Saint Laurent retired in 2002. His parting words were: ‘I feel immense sadness. We are putting an end to a 40-year-old love story.’